Saturn V Tidbit...
Did you know...
The maximum thrust of the Saturn V was over 9 million pounds?
Most Saturn V enthusiasts know the first stage produced a bit over 7.5 million pounds of thrust at liftoff. However, as the vehicle rose through the atmosphere and air pressure dropped the engines became more efficient and produced greater thrust maxing out at about 9 million pounds just as the center F-1 engine shut off prior to staging.
NASA's Vision for
Before there was even a concept for the Saturn V that would eventually fly in 1967, there was Nova. Originally conceived in 1958, Nova was considered the minimum vehicle that could take man to the moon sometime in the 1970's, if not sooner.
Here, a Nova, from a baseline design suggestion conceived in 1958 and being made public by Milt Rosen and F.C. Schwenk in a study presented in 1959, lifts off from Cape Canaveral. The Rosen/Schwenk baseline design, though never considered definitive but something to give people something to consider, has grown in popularity over the years and most scale modelers, when seeing drawings or illustrations such as the one at the left, immediately identify it as "Nova." This 1961 concept was envisioned to be operational by 1965 or 1966.
There were more concepts for NOVA than there were for the Saturn series. In fact, the Saturn C4 and C5 concepts very closely fit the definition of what Nova was described as.
The concept at left uses a cluster of nine tanks for the first stage, four for the second, and two for the third. Making the various transitions would be an interesting and enjoyable challenge for a sport modeler or a Sport Scale modeler for the NAR's Concept Scale event (though you would need a bit more data support).
Model Rocketry and Spacemodeling?
Drop us a note!
Go Back 50 Years...
Vintage Estes Catalogs
If you have an Estes Interceptor kit (either the more recent #1250 or an original K-50...or search the web for one) I have "skin" kits that you can apply yourself. The kit consists of three printed sheets of very thin (2 mil) vinyl that has a very strong adhesive backing. Though the "skins" can be applied to a completed Interceptor, it is much easier to apply the skins as you build the model.
I also have skin kits for the Estes Interceptor-E (Estes # 1350).
I can also build an Interceptor for you if you don't think you are up to it yourself.
Contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org if you would like to obtain a printed skin kit or a fully built Interceptor.
Some of the skin kits I currently have available for #1250 Interceptor and #1350 Interceptor-E are:
White "Chameleon" (white with block pattern)
Twilight "Chameleon" (black with block pattern)
Only for the #1250 Interceptor"
Midnight (black with no block pattern)
Phantom "Chameleon" (grey with block pattern)
White "Thunderbirds" (white Air Force Tbirds no block pattern)
"Chameleon" Thunderbirds (white Air Force Tbirds with block pattern)
For the Cosmic Interceptor and Trajector
Phantom "Chameleon" (grey with block pattern)
Visit eBay to see my Interceptor stuff and other rocketry related goodies (just search for "Accur8" or "Estes Interceptor").
Every Model Rocketeer Should Visit...
Vern Estes' Home Page.
Get a look at where the hobby really "launched" from in the early 1960's
This high-flying formation of Twilight Interceptors (both the image and the Interceptor models) was created by John Potts. The Interceptor on the left is an Interceptor E (Estes kit #1350) while the Interceptor on the right is a "standard" sized Interceptor (Estes kit #1250). Both models are covered with Accur8 Twilight vinyl skin kits. (The source image size is 1920 x 1080 and makes a great desktop background. Just click on the image and save to your computer)
If you find the information or images here of value, please consider a donation* to keep the Accur8 website going! Donations will be handled securely via PayPal.
*Due to PayPal fees, no donations less than $2.00, please.
Estes Little Joe II Building Tips
1. Bonding the corrugated body wrap: Wash and dry both sides of the wrap with a good detergent..."Dawn" works very well. A final wipe down with "Bestine" wouldn't hurt. I have found a couple of spray adhesives brands and types that are excellent at bonding the wrap. I prefer Loctite Spray Adhesive 200 (there is also a 300 that is even stronger).. The Loctite 200 sprays very controllably and evenly without "stringing". Spray on both the back of the wrap and the body, wait 2 or 3 minutes and then apply the wrap around the body. Then use 2" wide blue painters tape to tightly wrap over the outside of the plastic wrap and let sit overnight. Wrapping and allowing to cure/dry overnight also helps prevent a debonding "pucker" along the seem where the ends of the wrap meet. Scotch 77 and Scotch 90 spray adhesives also work well. The Scotch 77 sprays a bit thinner and isn't quite as strong as the Loctite 200 while the Scotch 90 is stronger but sprays a bit heavily in "strings".
2. Mask off all areas of the body using painters tape (including the inside rear surfaces of the body tube) as well as the "front" (visible) side of the wrap before spraying with ANY spray adhesive.
3. Don't use conventional plastic cement for styrene models to bond the injection molded plastic parts (such as fins, launch lugs, etc.) to the wrap (It IS okay to assemble the injection molded plastic parts with conventional liquid or tube type cements for plastic models before bonding them to the wrap). The wrap is ABS (or similar) plastic and conventional styrene cement barely bonds it. Use Tenax or Plastic Weld cements that are intended for ABS and WILL dissolve and create a bond to the plastic wrap. Even roughing the surface of the wrap and using epoxy will not develop the bond you need.
Keep checking back for more tips. Also check out my "Skin Kit" for the Estes Little Joe II on eBay (just search for "Estes Little Joe II") that completely replaces the decals on the escape motor, capsule and service module portions of the model. I'll have more about the wrap kit here soon.
Let Me Build a Little Joe II For You!
I utilize many improvements over a "stock" build of the kit. 1) Fin Spars through the body to prevent fin shear on recovery; 2) Accur8 "skins" wrapped on Service Module, Capsule, Escape Motor and Escape Motor nose; 3) Heavy 6-foot Kevlar shock cord secured to engine mount; 4) removable scale engine nozzles; 5) Ultra heavy duty engine mount; 6) repositioned engine mount to allow model to rest flat on its fins for display...AND MORE!